I was browsing the net for studio lighting solutions (as I'm learning to get indoors after a long spell of natural light photography). On my travels on the interweb I came across the excellent tutorial for creating a ringlight (flash clone, without the flash, and on the cheap) by Joseph Holst (http://www.studiolighting.net/homemade-ring-light-using-plywood/).

I printed it out and went to purchase the parts, thinking it a great tutorial. On the way to the shops though, I thought I'd stop into my friends place (he's an electronics guru and knows about electricity, and believe me, I don't!). The one problem I was having with the design was the use of all the incandesent light sources. They're old tech and I thought there must be a better way, I was considering LED's or halogens.

After a chat with my friend Florian, we came to the conclusion that halogens were the way, there are in particular, a small variety that would reduce the footprint and that made it attractive all the more. LEDs would be the best choice, but their prices are still too inhibitive and this is to be a budget project. I do not want to spend more than $30 on this.

On our rounds through misc stores though, we came across this (figure 1). It's a circular flourescent light that is equivilent roughly to a 100W incandesent. I was hooked instantly.

Part one. Purchasing the components


(figure 1)

That decision made, we quickly bought all the components we would need to create the electrical section of the project. This included an electrical cable with an on off rocker switch in line (figure 2), a fluorescent power supply for a circular bulb (figure 3), and the little cylindrical starter (don't know the actual name) for the fluorescent bulb(figure four).


(figure 2)

(figure 3)

(figure four)

The fluorescent power supply was sourced at the same shop as the rest of the gear but we managed to it get second-hand at a grand price of six dollars from the techie worked behind the counter at the back of the store. The combined price of the switch, the power supply, the cylindrical starter and the actual fluorescent bulb came to a grand total of $31. I only want to spend about $30 so this was pretty much on the mark!

Part two. Testing the components

We took the components home and quickly tested them. Luckily for me, Florian is excellent at electronics and all things electricity.I expect if you don't have a friend like Florian, simply ask the person at the store you purchase the equipment from to quickly put the circuit together. within three to four minutes Florian had finished screwing wires together and we were confident it would work. figure 8 shows the whole circuit in action. Quick, simple, painless!

(figure 5)


(figure 6)


(figure 7)


(figure 8)

part three. Creating the housing

This section may take a budget above the $31 mark, but I had all of these pieces lying around the house. I used a piece of plywood and a piece of pine off cut. other things used in this step include a bit of wood glue, some nails and some screws. I'll take you through what I did. also note that I chose would do this as I wanted to reduce the risk of any electrical problems (particularly shock) and I knew I had a bunch of offcuts ying around the house.

 

First of all I took the box that the light came in (make sure you take the light out first, as they are quite delicate)and placed it on the plywood. I then took the pen and using the pine of cut as a ruler, quickly drew my cutout line around the box a little bit larger than the box. (Figure 9). Feeling quite powerful (and quite the man) I pulled out my circular saw and quickly buzzed through the plywood. (Figure 10) I then lay the light on the freshly cut plywood to check that it was a good fit. I was quite happy. (Figure 11).

(figure 9)


(figure 10)


(figure 11)

not having a piece of string like the tutorial I got the idea from. I ssimply got a ruler, found the halfway mark, made a mark, then spun the ruler in increments marking along the outside to form a rough circle (figure 12). Things got quite interesting in the next step (figure 13)as I don't have the jigsaw I had to actually use a Stanley knife/blade knife to cut the circle. As you can see it was in very clean and not very circle like. I then took sandpaper (figure 14)and smoother circles best I could ensure to remove any rough edges as the camera lens will be sticking through this hole. I strongly recommend a jigsaw, it's one of those must have tools that I've never purchased.


(figure 12)


(figure 13)


(figure 14)

Next I took the piece of pine and cut into pieces to make the box below. The first two photos (figure 15 and 16) show me lining up the pieces of wood to make sure they fit. The next photo (figure 17) shows the box glued together and nailed. this box is where the electrical circuit will live and it will also provide support for the plywood that will hold the bulb. Like in the original tutorial, the tripod attachment will also connect to the bottom of this box.


(figure 15)


(figure 16)


(figure 17)

 

I may not have done all these things in the correct order, but this is a document of what I've done. The next thing that it was too drill a hole through the edging of the box for the electrical cable. next I had to quickly un wire the power cable, be it through the whole, then rewire it back to the circuit. After doing this I quickly connected it to the mains to check the light was still working (remember, electricity is not my thing).


(figure 18)


(figure 19)


(figure 20)

Part four. The (semi) final assembly

the idea was to use black cable ties to hold a light in place. I wanted to use clear ones but the man from the shop assured me that the UV light would break down the clear plastic. I purchased the black cable ties but left the Florian's house. I put this thing together at night time and Florian lives a good half an hour from me so I found is in shoe laces to hold in place temporarily to test.

 

The electrical parts are screwed into place into the base of the box making sure that the screws do not penetrate the bottom as we want to minimise any chance of anybody getting in contact with electricity. The little part of the circuit that holds the starter feeds up through the middle and plugs into place on the bulb. this is important to note as you should orientate the bulb so that the connector is at the bottom in the centre.


(figure 21)


(figure 22)


(figure 23)


(figure 24)

part five. Giving it a quick test before finalising the box

as its winter at the moment in Australia (at the time of writing this) it was getting quite cold outside at night time and I just had to try this unit out! I took it inside into the kitchen,plugged it in and YAHOO! She worked! (figure 25 and 26) Obviously at this stage it is a bit dangerous as the electricals are exposed, so all that is needed is another piece of wood across the top of the box, black plastic cable ties rather than shoe laces and of course, the tripod attachment on the bottom.


(figure 25)


(figure 26)

The finishing touches

the next set of images show the following day's work (well, about an hour of the following day's work). As I just wanted to use things that I had lying around, I decided to use a white gloss paint. Figures 27 and 28 show the unit fully painted white. I quite liked it, and I liked the idea of a white front to give a reflective surface and potentially enhance the lighting effect,but also liked the matte black look from joseph's original design.

 

I decided to bite the bullet, head out and spend another eight dollars and by a tin of matte black paint. this of course through my budget close to the $40 mark, and shows a 25% increase in cost of production!.. But really, what's $40 to get a fully working flash renewed?! Figures 29 and 30 show the final unit and the 31 shows it switched on. of course there is the one final addition, the tripod attachment. I pulled out one of my old photography tripods to use for this unit, and low and behold the attachment is missing! I'll hunt around for the next few days on and off in my meanderings of life and if it turns up then bonus but if not, I'll look for alternatives. But I'm sure this is enough to give you a good idea.

.
(figure 27)


(figure 28)


(figure 29)


(figure 30)


(figure 31)


The end result

Our neighbour was over visiting, having a cup of tea with my wife whilst I was toiling away on the back veranda. When I came in all excited us at them both down and took pictures of them with the lowly little snap happy pocket digital camera (five megapixel Sony DSc -- T1). This camera has real issues with low light, has been beaten up a bit over time and blurs the image at times, but for a first test I'm very happy with the results. I can't wait to get my hands on an Eos 20 D. or 5 D. (or similar) with a proper lens and see how this little light setup performs. A quick note, this whole thing, from start to finish (not including browsing the shops) took me about 4 hours to complete, say even 5. That is because I'm a bit of a grampa, but it was a good fun nights work and got me off the computer. Has to be a good thing no?!

 

Notes on things I would do differently

 

Thanks and all that

I'm very grateful to Joseph Holst for his original tutorial and really appreciate the guidance it gave me to create this modified version of his set up. In appreciation of his work to the community I decided I would give this tutorial as something back to the community and perhaps some will like his setup better, some will like my setup better, but whichever you choose, I hope you have as much fun as I did making the kit and get some great results from it.

I'd like to thank my friend Florian for his electrical nouse (and design ideas) and of course, my lovely wife for putting up with my 'projects' and to my neighbours, who put up with the hammering (with a spanner!) and sawing so late at night. Bless em! :) Oh, and to the lovely model (and my neighbour) Karen pictured above. Who'd have thought she's a mother of four!